Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Sidewalks


         Over the course of sixty-three years, I've lived in a lot of places. I've loved something  about each of them. The canyon where I grew up had lots of trees, a creek, and was close to the beach.  Coarsegold, where I lived for twenty years, had magnificent views of the high Sierras, the San Joaquin Valley and the Coastal Range.
          In the fall of 2010, when I had to say goodbye to the beautiful house my husband John and I built ten years before, I knew nothing would ever replace it. We'd chosen the design, the site, how to situate it to take in the best views, yet not compromise the mountain. 
          I had several months to take "goodbye walks" through my manzanita grove. I still think about those beautiful smooth-barked trees. In the spring they are covered in clusters of pale-pink, bell-shaped flowers that turn into sweet, apple-flavored berries in the fall.  Raccoons, coyotes, my dog and I loved to eat those "little apples" which is what manzanita means.
          Because we were moving to a town, I knew I would miss the rabbits that came out at dusk and the coveys of quail that skittered across the road. I had been living a rural life for twenty years. Our mailbox was two miles from our house. The closest market was seven miles away. I drove between fifteen and thirty-five miles to teach in after-school programs.  I knew there would be benefits to living in town, but I wasn't sure how I'd adjust to "civilization" after having complete privacy for so many years.     
          Then, one day it dawned on me. "I want to live where there are sidewalks," I told John. 
          I didn't mean the noisy strips of concrete that line Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica. (Although, when I lived in my condo in the late '80s, I did most of my shopping on foot, coughing when a bus spewed disgusting fumes.) I meant a quaint, old-fashioned sort of town, with a town square, and shops in buildings that had been around for more than a hundred years.
          Last Saturday night, after dinner at the Branding Iron at the Y.O. Ranch resort – a restaurant reminiscent of the 1960s with a high-ceilinged, muffled dining room, white tablecloths, and heavy silverware – I asked John if we could drive by the courthouse. Earlier in the evening there had been a parade that culminated with a holiday lighting ceremony.  I wasn't sure what to expect.    
          He found a place to park a block away and told me he was going to use the restroom at Azul, where he goes to listen to music at least once a week. I said I'd meet him back at the car and set off toward the courthouse.
          I could see a small crowd and hear an announcer talking on a stage lighted red and green. I hurried as he called out, "Are we ready to see some lights?"  And began to countdown, "Ten . . . nine. . . eight. . ."
          Just as I stepped onto the grass, lights came on: red, green and white strands wrapped around trees, Frosty the Snowman,  Santa and his reindeer, candy canes, wreaths and over on one corner, a wooden manger scene.  The crowd "oohed" and clapped. 
          "Let's go see Santa!" a teenage girl called to her friend and the two of them, dressed in shorts, darted past me.
          I meandered through a multiracial crowd: young parents with toddlers, elderly couples with canes, middle-aged men and women, boys and girls clutching red-and-green light sticks.  On stage, a female County-Western singer, accompanied by a guy strumming a guitar, began to sing.
           I headed back toward the car but walked past it, looking in shop windows.  I passed the historic Schreiner house, now a museum. In Azul, I found John talking to the bartender.
          "This is Doug," John said, and Doug and I shook hands.
          As we left the bar, walking up the basement steps to the sidewalk, I felt a huge affection for my new hometown. 
          Kerrville is the perfect place for me.  It may not have spectacular views of mountains or the ocean. I don't run into movie stars in the supermarket, like I do when I'm back in Pacific Palisades.  (But I have had breakfast with Kinky Friedman.) It's simply a friendly, unpretentious place to live, with parks and a river, wide-street neighborhoods where herds of whitetail deer greet me each morning. We have shopping malls, tons of churches, theaters, and cafes. And yes, well-maintained sidewalks in the charming, revitalized, historic section of town.